Birch Bark Extract

ORY® product lines:

☑ Skincare

☑ Haircare (scalp)

☑ Handmade Soap (infused oil)

☑ Cosmetics (balms, lip products) — full dual-use ingredient

Birch bark extract comes from the white outer bark of Betula species, whose distinctive color is due to betulin — a triterpene that can make up 10–30% of the dry bark. A dry triterpene extract of birch bark (betulin, betulinic acid, lupeol, oleanolic and erythrodiol) has moved from folk remedy to approved medicine: it accelerated wound closure in a phase III trial of split-thickness skin-graft donor sites [2] and was approved in the European Union as a prescription wound gel (Episalvan®/Filsuvez®) [3]. Laboratory work shows it speeds keratinocyte migration and the inflammatory-to-proliferative transition in healing [1], and betulin’s anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and antimicrobial actions are well reviewed [4]. Oil-soluble and stable, birch bark extract is a repair and barrier ingredient that ORY® can use across its lines.

What is Birch Bark Extract made of?

Birch bark extract is prepared by solvent (ethanol or heptane) extraction of dried outer bark, yielding a triterpene-rich powder, or by oil maceration. Its constituents [4]:

Birch bark is a sustainable by-product of the forestry and paper industries.

    • Betulin (≥80% of the triterpene extract): Wound-healing, anti-inflammatory, barrier-strengthening triterpene.
    • Betulinic acid: Anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, antioxidant.
    • Lupeol, oleanolic acid, erythrodiol: Supporting anti-inflammatory triterpenes.
    • Polyphenols and flavonoids (in aqueous extracts): Antioxidant.
    • Physical form: Betulin forms an oleogel with sunflower oil (the basis of the pharmaceutical gel) — useful for ORY® balms.

What skin type is best suited for Birch Bark Extract?

Birch bark extract is a repair ingredient for damaged, dry, and inflamed skin:

    • Sensitive: Anti-inflammatory and barrier-strengthening; suited to eczema-prone and reactive skin.
    • Dry: Improves barrier function and reduces roughness.
    • Mature: Supports keratinocyte renewal and barrier repair; antioxidant.
    • Acne-prone: Antimicrobial betulinic acid; supports healing of lesions and marks.
    • Combination: Use in light emulsions.
    • Normal: Barrier maintenance and post-stress repair.
    • Oily: Low levels in gel-creams.

What hair type is best suited for Birch Bark Extract?

Birch bark has a long tradition in Nordic scalp care; its anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial triterpenes support scalp health:

    • Dandruff-prone scalp: Traditional anti-dandruff botanical; antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory support.
    • Sensitive scalp: Calms irritated, flaky scalps.
    • Oily scalp: Mild astringent, sebum-balancing tradition.
    • Mature or thinning: Healthy-scalp support (growth claims remain cosmetic).
    • Dry or damaged: Infused oil conditions scalp.
    • Color-treated, straight, wavy, curly, coily: Scalp-health addition to any formula.

What are the benefits of Birch Bark Extract?

Birch bark extract offers clinically validated repair benefits [1–4]:

    • Wound healing: Phase III evidence of faster epithelialization; EU-approved active for partial-thickness wounds [2, 3].
    • Keratinocyte migration: Betulin up-regulates genes driving cell migration and closure [1].
    • Barrier strengthening: Improves stratum corneum lipid organization and reduces water loss.
    • Anti-inflammatory: Reduces pro-inflammatory cytokines; calms redness [4].
    • Antimicrobial: Betulinic acid and betulin inhibit skin bacteria.
    • Antioxidant: Protects against UV-induced oxidative stress.
    • Scalp health: Traditional dandruff and scalp-irritation botanical.

Dual use across ORY® product lines

Birch bark triterpenes are oil-soluble and heat-stable, allowing use in every ORY® line, including oil-infused soap.

Pros and cons of Birch Bark Extract

Pros

Cons

    • Pharmaceutical-grade evidence: Approved wound-healing active in Europe [2, 3].
    • Barrier and repair focus: Distinct from purely soothing botanicals.
    • Sustainable: Forestry by-product.
    • Stable: Triterpenes tolerate heat and pH.
    • Four-line utility: Balms, scalp care, soap, and lip products.
    • Limited water solubility: Requires an oil phase or oleogel.
    • Cosmetic evidence lags pharmaceutical: Most clinical data are wound-specific; anti-aging claims are extrapolated.
    • Birch pollen allergy: Cross-reactivity is rare with bark extract but patch test in birch-allergic customers.
    • Cost: Standardized triterpene extract is premium.
    • Odor: Slight woody, smoky note in crude extracts.

What is the best application of Birch Bark Extract?

Birch bark extract works best in leave-on repair products:

    • Repair balm or oleogel: Betulin-sunflower oleogel for chapped, cracked, or post-procedure skin.
    • Barrier cream: With ceramides and borage oil for eczema-prone skin.
    • Serum: Low-level triterpene extract for daily barrier support.
    • Hand cream: For dry, cracked hands.
    • Scalp serum: For flaky, irritated scalps.
    • Soap: Infused-oil repair bar.
    • Lip balm: Repair balm for chapped lips.
    • Pairing: Centella, allantoin, panthenol, ceramides.

Peer-reviewed references

  1. Ebeling S, Naumann K, Pollok S, et al. From a traditional medicinal plant to a rational drug: understanding the clinically proven wound healing efficacy of birch bark extract. PLoS ONE. 2014;9(1):e86147.
  2. Frew Q, Rennekampff HO, Dziewulski P, et al. Betulin wound gel accelerated wound healing of superficial partial thickness burns: results of a randomized, intra-individually controlled, phase III trial with 12-months follow-up. Burns. 2019;45(4):876–890.
  3. Scheffler A. The wound healing properties of betulin from birch bark from bench to bedside. Planta Medica. 2019;85(7):524–527.
  4. Alakurtti S, Mäkelä T, Koskimies S, Yli-Kauhaluoma J. Pharmacological properties of the ubiquitous natural product betulin. European Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences. 2006;29(1):1–13.

Disclaimer:

The information on this page is provided by ORY International, LC for educational purposes only. It summarizes published research about birch bark extract as an ingredient, including laboratory and animal studies and clinical studies of formulas that may differ from ORY® products. Results from these studies may not apply to every person or to ORY® products. This page is not medical advice and does not replace advice from a dermatologist, physician, or other qualified healthcare provider.

ORY® Skincare, Haircare, Handmade Soap, and Cosmetics products are cosmetics. They are not intended to diagnose, treat, cure, mitigate, or prevent any disease or condition, including wounds, burns, epidermolysis bullosa, eczema, dermatitis, dandruff, infections, or hair loss. References to FDA or Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) findings describe the ingredient, not ORY® products, and do not mean FDA has reviewed or approved any ORY® product.

Results vary by skin and scalp type, formulation, and use. Reactions to birch bark extract are uncommon, but people with birch allergy should patch test, and any cosmetic can cause irritation, sometimes from other ingredients. Always patch test, follow label directions, and stop use if irritation occurs. If you are pregnant, nursing, have a medical condition, or are buying for a child, consult a healthcare provider before use.

ORY International, LC works to keep this page accurate and current but makes no warranty as to its completeness. To the fullest extent permitted by law, ORY International, LC is not liable for any loss or injury arising from reliance on this information or from use of any product contrary to its label directions. To report a reaction, contact us at [insert contact email / phone].

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