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Emulsifying Wax NF
ORY® product lines:
☑ Skincare
☑ Haircare
◐ Handmade Soap (limited: lotion bars, syndet bars)
☑ Cosmetics — three-line functional ingredient
Emulsifying Wax NF is a standardized, complete emulsifying system defined by the U.S. National Formulary: cetearyl alcohol (the fatty-alcohol body and co-emulsifier) combined with polysorbate 60 (a non-ionic, water-loving emulsifier), typically in an 80:20 ratio. Because it contains both halves of an emulsifier pair in one waxy pellet, it reliably turns oil and water into a smooth, stable, non-ionic oil-in-water lotion or cream — which is why it is the most widely used emulsifier among small-batch and handmade skincare makers and an ideal base for ORY®‘s Build-Your-Own creams. Its non-ionic nature makes it tolerant of acids, salts, and most actives. Both components have been reviewed as safe by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Panel [1, 2].
What is Emulsifying Wax NF made of?
Emulsifying Wax NF is a co-melted blend of two plant-derived ingredients. Composition [1, 2]:
- Cetearyl alcohol (~80%): C16/C18 fatty alcohols; emollient, thickener, lamellar co-emulsifier.
- Polysorbate 60 (~20%): Ethoxylated sorbitan stearate; non-ionic high-HLB emulsifier that stabilizes oil droplets in water.
- Combined HLB ~9–10: Suited to oil-in-water emulsions with most plant oils.
- Note on variants: “Emulsifying Wax” without “NF” may be cetearyl alcohol + ceteareth-20 (Polawax-type) — similar performance; different INCI.
- White waxy pellets; melts at ~50–55 °C; vegan.
What skin type is best suited for Emulsifying Wax NF?
Emulsifying Wax NF suits all seven ORY® skin types as a neutral, tolerant cream base:
- Dry: Fatty-alcohol emollience softens and reduces water loss; Emulsifying Wax NF lets ORY® build richer creams.
- Sensitive: Non-irritating, fragrance-free structural ingredient; suitable for reactive and eczema-prone skin (rare fatty-alcohol allergy — patch test).
- Mature: Supports rich, cushioning creams and barrier balms.
- Normal: Everyday lotion and cream structure.
- Combination: Adjust level for lighter lotions.
- Oily: Light lotions at 3–4% feel non-greasy.
- Acne-prone: Low comedogenicity at typical levels; keep formulas light.
What hair type is best suited for Emulsifying Wax NF?
Emulsifying Wax NF builds non-ionic hair creams and light conditioners (for cationic conditioning, BTMS is preferred):
- Curly and coily: Curl creams and leave-ins.
- Dry or damaged: Hair masks and creams (add BTMS for true conditioning).
- Straight and wavy: Light styling and leave-in creams.
- Color-treated: Acid-tolerant; compatible with low-pH formulas.
- Oily scalp, sensitive scalp, dandruff-prone, mature or thinning: Neutral structural base for scalp creams and treatments.
What are the benefits of Emulsifying Wax NF?
Emulsifying Wax NF’s benefits are functional and reliable [1, 2, 3]:
- Complete emulsifier: Both emulsifier halves in one ingredient; nearly foolproof O/W emulsions.
- Non-ionic tolerance: Compatible with acids (AHAs, vitamin C), salts, and most actives.
- Thickening and body: Cetearyl alcohol provides viscosity without gums.
- Emollient: Softens skin; supports barrier lipids [3].
- Stable: Good freeze–thaw and heat stability.
- Standardized: NF monograph ensures batch consistency.
- Versatile texture: From thin lotions to thick creams by dose.
Dual use across ORY® product lines
Emulsifying Wax NF serves lotions, creams, hair creams, and cosmetics; cold-process soap does not use it, but it stabilizes lotion bars and syndet bars.
Pros and cons of Emulsifying Wax NF
Pros
Cons
- Reliable and forgiving: Ideal for small-batch and custom creams.
- Acid- and salt-tolerant: Works with active-rich formulas.
- Standardized quality: NF monograph.
- Vegan, plant-derived: Coconut/palm fatty alcohols; sorbitol-based polysorbate.
- Affordable: Economical base.
- Contains an ethoxylated component: Polysorbate 60 (PEG-type) — excluded from some “natural” standards; trace 1,4-dioxane must be controlled by the supplier.
- No conditioning charge: For true hair conditioning, use BTMS.
- Waxy feel at high levels: Balance with esters.
- Rare fatty-alcohol allergy: Patch test.
- Name ambiguity: Verify INCI (polysorbate 60 vs ceteareth-20 versions).
What is the best application of Emulsifying Wax NF?
Emulsifying Wax NF is the base of ORY® custom lotions and creams:
- Light lotion: 3–4% with 10–15% oils.
- Cream: 6–8% with 20–25% oils and butters.
- Body butter: 8% with shea and cocoa butter.
- Curl cream or leave-in: 3–5%.
- Lotion bar or syndet bar: 5–15%.
- Cosmetics: Cream foundation base.
Peer-reviewed references
- Elder RL (ed). Final report on the safety assessment of cetearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, and behenyl alcohol. Journal of the American College of Toxicology. 1988;7(3):359–413.
- Elder RL (ed). Final report on the safety assessment of polysorbates 20, 21, 40, 60, 61, 65, 80, 81, and 85. Journal of the American College of Toxicology. 1984;3(5):1–82.
- Lodén M. Role of topical emollients and moisturizers in the treatment of dry skin barrier disorders. American Journal of Clinical Dermatology. 2003;4(11):771–788.
Disclaimer:
The information on this page is provided by ORY International, LC for educational purposes only. It summarizes published research about Emulsifying Wax NF (cetearyl alcohol and polysorbate 60) as an ingredient, including laboratory and animal studies and clinical studies of formulas that may differ from ORY® products. Results from these studies may not apply to every person or to ORY® products. This page is not medical advice and does not replace advice from a dermatologist, physician, or other qualified healthcare provider.
ORY® Skincare, Haircare, Handmade Soap, and Cosmetics products are cosmetics. They are not intended to diagnose, treat, cure, mitigate, or prevent any disease or condition, including eczema, dermatitis, acne, dandruff, or any other condition. References to FDA or Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) findings describe the ingredient, not ORY® products, and do not mean FDA has reviewed or approved any ORY® product.
Results vary by skin and scalp type, formulation, and use. Emulsifiers are rarely irritating at normal use levels, and any cosmetic can cause irritation, sometimes from other ingredients. Always patch test, follow label directions, and stop use if irritation occurs. If you are pregnant, nursing, have a medical condition, or are buying for a child, consult a healthcare provider before use.
ORY International, LC works to keep this page accurate and current but makes no warranty as to its completeness. To the fullest extent permitted by law, ORY International, LC is not liable for any loss or injury arising from reliance on this information or from use of any product contrary to its label directions. To report a reaction, contact us at [insert contact email / phone].
