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Optiphen Plus
At ORY®, we believe you should know what’s in your products and why. This page lists the published research behind what we say about Optiphen Plus (phenoxyethanol, caprylyl glycol, and sorbic acid). Each section starts with our claim, then tells you how well the research supports it, then lists the sources so you can read them yourself.
Please note: Preservatives protect water-containing products from bacteria, yeast, and mold. They do not treat the skin or prevent infection on the skin. Every ORY® water-based formula should pass a preservative efficacy (challenge) test, such as USP <51> or ISO 11930, before sale.
Trade name: Optiphen™ Plus is a trademark of Ashland. On ORY® labels, it appears by its ingredient names: Phenoxyethanol, Caprylyl Glycol, Sorbic Acid.
How to read this page Supported — backed by peer-reviewed research or official safety reviews. Supported, with caveats — the research points this way, but mostly from laboratory or animal studies, or at different strengths than ORY® uses. Limited evidence — little or no published research yet. We say so openly. |
1. General Description and Role
Claim: Optiphen™ Plus is a paraben- and formaldehyde-free preservative blend of phenoxyethanol, caprylyl glycol, and sorbic acid. In ORY® products, it helps protect water-based formulas with a pH of 6 or lower from bacteria, yeast, and mold. |
Verification: Supported. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel concluded that phenoxyethanol, caprylyl glycol, and sorbic acid are each safe as used in cosmetics. The European SCCS found phenoxyethanol safe at up to 1%. CIR has not reviewed this trade blend as a whole.
Citations:
- Elder, R. L. (Ed.). (1990). Final report on the safety assessment of phenoxyethanol. Journal of the American College of Toxicology, 9(2), 259–277 (conclusion reaffirmed in Andersen, F. A. (2011). Annual review of cosmetic ingredient safety assessments: 2007–2010. International Journal of Toxicology, 30(Suppl), 73S–127S). https://doi.org/10.3109/10915819009078737
- What it shows: CIR safety assessment of phenoxyethanol.
- Johnson, W., Jr., Bergfeld, W. F., Belsito, D. V., et al. (2012). Safety assessment of 1,2-glycols as used in cosmetics (including caprylyl glycol). International Journal of Toxicology, 31(5 Suppl), 147S–168S. https://doi.org/10.1177/1091581812460409
- What it shows: CIR safety assessment of 1,2-glycols, including caprylyl glycol.
- Elder, R. L. (Ed.). (1988). Final report on the safety assessment of sorbic acid and potassium sorbate. Journal of the American College of Toxicology, 7(6), 837–880. https://doi.org/10.3109/10915818809078711
- What it shows: CIR safety assessment of sorbic acid.
- European Commission, Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety. (2016). Opinion on phenoxyethanol (SCCS/1575/16): safe as a preservative at a maximum concentration of 1.0%, including for children. https://health.ec.europa.eu/system/files/2021-08/sccs_o_195_0.pdf
- What it shows: SCCS opinion.
- Elder, R. L. (Ed.). (1990). Final report on the safety assessment of phenoxyethanol. Journal of the American College of Toxicology, 9(2), 259–277 (conclusion reaffirmed in Andersen, F. A. (2011). Annual review of cosmetic ingredient safety assessments: 2007–2010. International Journal of Toxicology, 30(Suppl), 73S–127S). https://doi.org/10.3109/10915819009078737
2. Composition and Production
Claim: Phenoxyethanol is the main antibacterial part. Caprylyl glycol conditions skin and boosts preservation. Sorbic acid controls yeast and mold but works mainly at pH 6 or below. Typical use is 0.75–1.5%, keeping phenoxyethanol at or below 1%. |
Verification: Supported. Each component is well characterized.
Citations:
- Johnson, W., Jr., Bergfeld, W. F., Belsito, D. V., et al. (2012). Safety assessment of 1,2-glycols as used in cosmetics (including caprylyl glycol). International Journal of Toxicology, 31(5 Suppl), 147S–168S. https://doi.org/10.1177/1091581812460409
- What it shows: Describes caprylyl glycol.
- Elder, R. L. (Ed.). (1988). Final report on the safety assessment of sorbic acid and potassium sorbate. Journal of the American College of Toxicology, 7(6), 837–880. https://doi.org/10.3109/10915818809078711
- What it shows: Describes sorbic acid.
- Johnson, W., Jr., Bergfeld, W. F., Belsito, D. V., et al. (2012). Safety assessment of 1,2-glycols as used in cosmetics (including caprylyl glycol). International Journal of Toxicology, 31(5 Suppl), 147S–168S. https://doi.org/10.1177/1091581812460409
3. Skin Type Suitability
Claim: At its use level, Optiphen™ Plus is suitable for all skin types. |
Verification: Supported, with caveats. Contact allergy to phenoxyethanol is rare. Sorbic acid can occasionally cause brief stinging, so people with sensitive skin should patch test.
Citations:
- Dréno, B., Zuberbier, T., Gelmetti, C., Gontijo, G., & Marinovich, M. (2019). Safety review of phenoxyethanol when used as a preservative in cosmetics. Journal of the European Academy of Dermatology and Venereology, 33(Suppl 7), 15–24. https://doi.org/10.1111/jdv.15944
- What it shows: Safety review of phenoxyethanol.
- Elder, R. L. (Ed.). (1988). Final report on the safety assessment of sorbic acid and potassium sorbate. Journal of the American College of Toxicology, 7(6), 837–880. https://doi.org/10.3109/10915818809078711
- What it shows: Sorbic acid irritation data.
- Dréno, B., Zuberbier, T., Gelmetti, C., Gontijo, G., & Marinovich, M. (2019). Safety review of phenoxyethanol when used as a preservative in cosmetics. Journal of the European Academy of Dermatology and Venereology, 33(Suppl 7), 15–24. https://doi.org/10.1111/jdv.15944
4. Hair and Scalp Suitability
Claim: In haircare, Optiphen™ Plus protects water-based shampoos, conditioners, leave-ins, and scalp products from microbial growth. It has no direct effect on hair. |
Verification: Supported. This is a formulation role; ORY® haircare products are not intended to treat dandruff or scalp conditions.
Citations:
- Lundov, M. D., Moesby, L., Zachariae, C., & Johansen, J. D. (2009). Contamination versus preservation of cosmetics: A review on legislation, usage, infections, and contact allergy. Contact Dermatitis, 60(2), 70–78. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1600-0536.2008.01501.x
- What it shows: Review of cosmetic preservation.
- Lundov, M. D., Moesby, L., Zachariae, C., & Johansen, J. D. (2009). Contamination versus preservation of cosmetics: A review on legislation, usage, infections, and contact allergy. Contact Dermatitis, 60(2), 70–78. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1600-0536.2008.01501.x
5. Benefits
Claim: Optiphen™ Plus helps keep acidic water-based products free of harmful microbial growth. |
Verification: Supported. Preservatives protect the product, not the skin.
Citations:
- Lundov, M. D., Moesby, L., Zachariae, C., & Johansen, J. D. (2009). Contamination versus preservation of cosmetics: A review on legislation, usage, infections, and contact allergy. Contact Dermatitis, 60(2), 70–78. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1600-0536.2008.01501.x
- What it shows: Review of contamination and preservation.
- Lundov, M. D., Moesby, L., Zachariae, C., & Johansen, J. D. (2009). Contamination versus preservation of cosmetics: A review on legislation, usage, infections, and contact allergy. Contact Dermatitis, 60(2), 70–78. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1600-0536.2008.01501.x
6. Use Across ORY® Product Lines
Claim: Optiphen™ Plus is used in ORY® Skincare, Haircare, and Cosmetics with a pH of 6 or lower, and in acidic liquid cleansers. |
Verification: Supported. It is not suitable for true liquid soap, which is alkaline (pH 9–10), and cold-process bars do not need it.
| Product line | Typical level | How ORY® uses it |
| Skincare | 0.75–1.5% | Creams, lotions, serums, toners, gels, and masks (pH 4–6). |
| Haircare | 0.75–1.5% | Shampoos, conditioners, leave-ins, and curl creams (pH 4.5–6). |
| Handmade Soap line | 0.75–1.5% | Acidic syndet or cream cleansers only (not alkaline liquid soap or cold-process bars). |
| Cosmetics | 0.75–1.5% | Foundations, BB creams, primers, and setting sprays (pH 6 or lower). |
Citations:
- Elder, R. L. (Ed.). (1988). Final report on the safety assessment of sorbic acid and potassium sorbate. Journal of the American College of Toxicology, 7(6), 837–880. https://doi.org/10.3109/10915818809078711
- What it shows: pH dependence of sorbic acid.
- U.S. Food and Drug Administration. 21 CFR 701.20 — Definition of “soap” (only true soap, made mainly of alkali salts of fatty acids and sold only as soap, is exempt from cosmetic rules). https://www.ecfr.gov/current/title-21/chapter-I/subchapter-G/part-701/subpart-B/section-701.20
- What it shows: FDA definition of soap; other bars are cosmetics.
- Elder, R. L. (Ed.). (1988). Final report on the safety assessment of sorbic acid and potassium sorbate. Journal of the American College of Toxicology, 7(6), 837–880. https://doi.org/10.3109/10915818809078711
7. Pros
Claim: A convenient, paraben- and formaldehyde-free blend of CIR-reviewed components. |
Verification: Supported. Each component has a CIR safety conclusion.
Citations:
- Elder, R. L. (Ed.). (1990). Final report on the safety assessment of phenoxyethanol. Journal of the American College of Toxicology, 9(2), 259–277 (conclusion reaffirmed in Andersen, F. A. (2011). Annual review of cosmetic ingredient safety assessments: 2007–2010. International Journal of Toxicology, 30(Suppl), 73S–127S). https://doi.org/10.3109/10915819009078737
- What it shows: Safety.
- Johnson, W., Jr., Bergfeld, W. F., Belsito, D. V., et al. (2012). Safety assessment of 1,2-glycols as used in cosmetics (including caprylyl glycol). International Journal of Toxicology, 31(5 Suppl), 147S–168S. https://doi.org/10.1177/1091581812460409
- What it shows: Safety.
- Elder, R. L. (Ed.). (1988). Final report on the safety assessment of sorbic acid and potassium sorbate. Journal of the American College of Toxicology, 7(6), 837–880. https://doi.org/10.3109/10915818809078711
- What it shows: Safety.
- Elder, R. L. (Ed.). (1990). Final report on the safety assessment of phenoxyethanol. Journal of the American College of Toxicology, 9(2), 259–277 (conclusion reaffirmed in Andersen, F. A. (2011). Annual review of cosmetic ingredient safety assessments: 2007–2010. International Journal of Toxicology, 30(Suppl), 73S–127S). https://doi.org/10.3109/10915819009078737
8. Cons
Claim: Optiphen™ Plus depends on pH and can affect some formulas. |
Verification: Supported. We list these limits so you have the full picture:
- pH-dependent. Loses antifungal power above pH 6.
- Emulsion stability. Caprylyl glycol can thin some emulsions.
- Discoloration. Sorbic acid may yellow over time.
- Challenge testing needed. Efficacy must be confirmed in each formula.
Citations:
- Elder, R. L. (Ed.). (1988). Final report on the safety assessment of sorbic acid and potassium sorbate. Journal of the American College of Toxicology, 7(6), 837–880. https://doi.org/10.3109/10915818809078711
- What it shows: Sorbic acid properties.
- Elder, R. L. (Ed.). (1988). Final report on the safety assessment of sorbic acid and potassium sorbate. Journal of the American College of Toxicology, 7(6), 837–880. https://doi.org/10.3109/10915818809078711
9. Safety Notes
Claim: Patch test before use; for external use only. |
Verification: Supported. Follow these precautions:
- Patch test any new product on a small area for 24–48 hours before full use.
- If you know you are allergic to phenoxyethanol, caprylyl glycol, or sorbic acid, avoid products that contain them.
- Water-based products are only as safe as their preservation. Keep lids closed, do not add water to the product, and discard it if it changes color, smell, or texture.
- Stop use if redness, burning, itching, or rash occurs, and talk to a healthcare provider.
- For external use only. Avoid the eyes unless the product is made for the eye area.
- If you are pregnant, nursing, have a medical condition, or are buying for a child, ask a healthcare provider before use.
Citations:
- Elder, R. L. (Ed.). (1990). Final report on the safety assessment of phenoxyethanol. Journal of the American College of Toxicology, 9(2), 259–277 (conclusion reaffirmed in Andersen, F. A. (2011). Annual review of cosmetic ingredient safety assessments: 2007–2010. International Journal of Toxicology, 30(Suppl), 73S–127S). https://doi.org/10.3109/10915819009078737
- What it shows: Safety.
- Elder, R. L. (Ed.). (1988). Final report on the safety assessment of sorbic acid and potassium sorbate. Journal of the American College of Toxicology, 7(6), 837–880. https://doi.org/10.3109/10915818809078711
- What it shows: Safety.
- Elder, R. L. (Ed.). (1990). Final report on the safety assessment of phenoxyethanol. Journal of the American College of Toxicology, 9(2), 259–277 (conclusion reaffirmed in Andersen, F. A. (2011). Annual review of cosmetic ingredient safety assessments: 2007–2010. International Journal of Toxicology, 30(Suppl), 73S–127S). https://doi.org/10.3109/10915819009078737
10. Product-line notes
- ORY® Skincare: For external use only. Not for deep or puncture wounds, animal bites, or serious burns.
- ORY® Haircare: Designed for the look and feel of hair and scalp comfort. Not intended to treat dandruff or scalp conditions, or to promote hair growth or prevent hair loss.
- ORY® Handmade Soap line: Cold-process bars contain very little free water and do not need this preservative. It is used only in liquid soaps, cream soaps, and water-containing syndet products; syndet and cream products are cosmetics under FDA rules, not soap, and list all of their ingredients.
- ORY® Cosmetics: Do not share applicators, and replace any product that changes color, smell, or texture.
11. References
Peer-reviewed research
- Dréno, B., Zuberbier, T., Gelmetti, C., Gontijo, G., & Marinovich, M. (2019). Safety review of phenoxyethanol when used as a preservative in cosmetics. Journal of the European Academy of Dermatology and Venereology, 33(Suppl 7), 15–24. https://doi.org/10.1111/jdv.15944
- Elder, R. L. (Ed.). (1988). Final report on the safety assessment of sorbic acid and potassium sorbate. Journal of the American College of Toxicology, 7(6), 837–880. https://doi.org/10.3109/10915818809078711
- Elder, R. L. (Ed.). (1990). Final report on the safety assessment of phenoxyethanol. Journal of the American College of Toxicology, 9(2), 259–277 (conclusion reaffirmed in Andersen, F. A. (2011). Annual review of cosmetic ingredient safety assessments: 2007–2010. International Journal of Toxicology, 30(Suppl), 73S–127S). https://doi.org/10.3109/10915819009078737
- Johnson, W., Jr., Bergfeld, W. F., Belsito, D. V., et al. (2012). Safety assessment of 1,2-glycols as used in cosmetics (including caprylyl glycol). International Journal of Toxicology, 31(5 Suppl), 147S–168S. https://doi.org/10.1177/1091581812460409
- Lundov, M. D., Moesby, L., Zachariae, C., & Johansen, J. D. (2009). Contamination versus preservation of cosmetics: A review on legislation, usage, infections, and contact allergy. Contact Dermatitis, 60(2), 70–78. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1600-0536.2008.01501.x
Government and regulatory sources
- European Commission, Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety. (2016). Opinion on phenoxyethanol (SCCS/1575/16): safe as a preservative at a maximum concentration of 1.0%, including for children. https://health.ec.europa.eu/system/files/2021-08/sccs_o_195_0.pdf
- U.S. Food and Drug Administration. 21 CFR 701.20 — Definition of “soap” (only true soap, made mainly of alkali salts of fatty acids and sold only as soap, is exempt from cosmetic rules). https://www.ecfr.gov/current/title-21/chapter-I/subchapter-G/part-701/subpart-B/section-701.20
