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Shea Butter
At ORY®, we believe you should know what’s in your products and why. This page lists the published research behind what we say about shea butter. Each section starts with our claim, then tells you how well the research supports it, then lists the sources so you can read them yourself.
Please note: One study on this page tested a shea-based cream in children with eczema, which is a medical condition. We share it for transparency. ORY® shea butter products are cosmetics and are not intended to treat eczema or any condition.
How to read this page Supported — backed by peer-reviewed research or official safety reviews. Supported, with caveats — the research points this way, but mostly from laboratory or animal studies, or at different strengths than ORY® uses. Limited evidence — little or no published research yet. We say so openly. |
1. General Description and Role
Claim: Shea butter is the fat pressed from the nuts of the West African shea tree (Vitellaria paradoxa). In ORY® products, it forms a cushioning, protective layer that helps dry skin, lips, and hair feel soft and moisturized, and it adds hardness to soap. |
Verification: Supported. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel concluded that shea-derived ingredients, including shea butter, are safe in cosmetics when formulated to be non-sensitizing.
Citations:
- Burnett, C. L., et al. (2024). Safety assessment of Butyrospermum parkii (shea)-derived ingredients as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 43(1 Suppl), 82S–95S. https://doi.org/10.1177/10915818231224230
- What it shows: CIR safety assessment of shea ingredients.
- Burnett, C. L., et al. (2024). Safety assessment of Butyrospermum parkii (shea)-derived ingredients as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 43(1 Suppl), 82S–95S. https://doi.org/10.1177/10915818231224230
2. Composition and Production
Claim: Shea butter is mostly stearic and oleic acids, with an unusually large unsaponifiable fraction that includes triterpene esters and tocopherols. Tocopherol content varies with where the shea is grown. |
Verification: Supported. Its fatty-acid profile is well documented.
Citations:
- Maranz, S., & Wiesman, Z. (2004). Influence of climate on the tocopherol content of shea butter. Journal of Agricultural and Food Chemistry, 52(10), 2934–2937. https://doi.org/10.1021/jf035194r
- What it shows: Study of shea tocopherol content.
- Akihisa, T., et al. (2010). Anti-inflammatory and chemopreventive effects of triterpene cinnamates and acetates from shea fat. Journal of Oleo Science, 59(6), 273–280. https://doi.org/10.5650/jos.59.273
- What it shows: Describes triterpene esters.
- Maranz, S., & Wiesman, Z. (2004). Influence of climate on the tocopherol content of shea butter. Journal of Agricultural and Food Chemistry, 52(10), 2934–2937. https://doi.org/10.1021/jf035194r
3. Skin Type Suitability
Claim: Shea butter suits dry, normal, and mature skin. It is too rich for most oily faces. |
Verification: Supported, with caveats. CIR’s conclusion depends on formulating to avoid sensitization.
Citations:
- Burnett, C. L., et al. (2024). Safety assessment of Butyrospermum parkii (shea)-derived ingredients as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 43(1 Suppl), 82S–95S. https://doi.org/10.1177/10915818231224230
- What it shows: Safety conclusion.
- Burnett, C. L., et al. (2024). Safety assessment of Butyrospermum parkii (shea)-derived ingredients as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 43(1 Suppl), 82S–95S. https://doi.org/10.1177/10915818231224230
4. Hair and Scalp Suitability
Claim: In haircare, shea butter helps seal moisture into curly and coily hair. |
Verification: Limited evidence. Oils are commonly used to soften hair and reduce the look of frizz; we found no controlled clinical studies of this oil on hair. ORY® haircare products are not intended to treat dandruff, scalp conditions, or hair loss.
Citations:
- Lin, T. K., Zhong, L., & Santiago, J. L. (2018). Anti-inflammatory and skin barrier repair effects of topical application of some plant oils. International Journal of Molecular Sciences, 19(1), 70. https://doi.org/10.3390/ijms19010070
- What it shows: General review.
- Lin, T. K., Zhong, L., & Santiago, J. L. (2018). Anti-inflammatory and skin barrier repair effects of topical application of some plant oils. International Journal of Molecular Sciences, 19(1), 70. https://doi.org/10.3390/ijms19010070
5. Benefits
Claim: Shea butter helps dry skin feel soft, cushioned, and protected. |
Verification: Supported, with caveats. Compounds isolated from shea fat reduced inflammation in mice and rats, but those studies tested isolated compounds, not shea butter. In a small non-randomized study of 34 children with eczema, a shea-based cream and cleanser performed similarly to a ceramide product; eczema is a medical use. Shea contains cinnamate esters that absorb some UV light, but it is not a sunscreen. ORY® does not make eczema, anti-inflammatory, or sun-protection claims.
Citations:
- Akihisa, T., et al. (2010). Anti-inflammatory and chemopreventive effects of triterpene cinnamates and acetates from shea fat. Journal of Oleo Science, 59(6), 273–280. https://doi.org/10.5650/jos.59.273
- What it shows: Animal and lab study of shea compounds.
- Hon, K. L., et al. (2015). Patient acceptability, efficacy, and skin biophysiology of a cream and cleanser containing lipid complex with shea butter extract versus a ceramide product for eczema. Hong Kong Medical Journal, 21(5), 417–425. https://www.hkmj.org/abstracts/v21n5/417.htm
- What it shows: Small non-randomized eczema study (a medical use).
- U.S. Food and Drug Administration. (2019, February 26). Sunscreen drug products for over-the-counter human use (proposed rule), 84 FR 6204. https://www.federalregister.gov/documents/2019/02/26/2019-03019/sunscreen-drug-products-for-over-the-counter-human-use
- What it shows: FDA sunscreen rules.
- Akihisa, T., et al. (2010). Anti-inflammatory and chemopreventive effects of triterpene cinnamates and acetates from shea fat. Journal of Oleo Science, 59(6), 273–280. https://doi.org/10.5650/jos.59.273
6. Use Across ORY® Product Lines
Claim: Shea Butter is used in all four ORY® product lines. |
Verification: Supported. ORY® tempers shea butter to prevent graininess. In soap, it is kept to about 15% of oils.
| Product line | Typical level | How ORY® uses it |
| Skincare | 5–100% | Body butters, balms, hand and foot creams, lip care, and rich creams. |
| Haircare | 5–50% | Hair masks, curl butters, sealing creams, and conditioner bars. |
| Handmade Soap | 5–15% of oils | Hardness and conditioning. |
| Cosmetics | 5–30% | Lipsticks, balms, cream sticks, and highlighters. |
Citations:
- Burnett, C. L., et al. (2024). Safety assessment of Butyrospermum parkii (shea)-derived ingredients as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 43(1 Suppl), 82S–95S. https://doi.org/10.1177/10915818231224230
- What it shows: Reported uses.
- U.S. Food and Drug Administration. Is It a Cosmetic, a Drug, or Both? (Or Is It Soap?) https://www.fda.gov/cosmetics/cosmetics-laws-regulations/it-cosmetic-drug-or-both-or-it-soap
- What it shows: FDA explains how soap is regulated.
- Burnett, C. L., et al. (2024). Safety assessment of Butyrospermum parkii (shea)-derived ingredients as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 43(1 Suppl), 82S–95S. https://doi.org/10.1177/10915818231224230
7. Pros
Claim: A rich, protective butter with a CIR safety conclusion. |
Verification: Supported. Well documented composition and long cosmetic use.
Citations:
- Burnett, C. L., et al. (2024). Safety assessment of Butyrospermum parkii (shea)-derived ingredients as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 43(1 Suppl), 82S–95S. https://doi.org/10.1177/10915818231224230
- What it shows: Safety conclusion.
- Burnett, C. L., et al. (2024). Safety assessment of Butyrospermum parkii (shea)-derived ingredients as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 43(1 Suppl), 82S–95S. https://doi.org/10.1177/10915818231224230
8. Cons
Claim: Shea butter is heavy, can turn grainy, and its anti-inflammatory evidence is from isolated compounds in animals. |
Verification: Supported. We list these limits so you have the full picture:
- Heavy. Not for oily faces or fine hair.
- Graininess. Needs proper tempering.
- Evidence limits. Anti-inflammatory data are from isolated compounds in animals.
- Soap. Above about 15% can make brittle bars.
Citations:
- Akihisa, T., et al. (2010). Anti-inflammatory and chemopreventive effects of triterpene cinnamates and acetates from shea fat. Journal of Oleo Science, 59(6), 273–280. https://doi.org/10.5650/jos.59.273
- What it shows: Isolated-compound studies.
- Akihisa, T., et al. (2010). Anti-inflammatory and chemopreventive effects of triterpene cinnamates and acetates from shea fat. Journal of Oleo Science, 59(6), 273–280. https://doi.org/10.5650/jos.59.273
9. Safety Notes
Claim: Patch test before use; for external use only. |
Verification: Supported. Follow these precautions:
- Patch test any new product on a small area for 24–48 hours before full use.
- If you have a nut or seed allergy, patch test carefully.
- Store away from heat and light, and discard if it smells rancid.
- Stop use if redness, burning, itching, or rash occurs, and talk to a healthcare provider.
- For external use only. Avoid the eyes.
- If you are pregnant, nursing, have a medical condition, or are buying for a child, ask a healthcare provider before use.
Citations:
- Burnett, C. L., et al. (2024). Safety assessment of Butyrospermum parkii (shea)-derived ingredients as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 43(1 Suppl), 82S–95S. https://doi.org/10.1177/10915818231224230
- What it shows: Safety assessment.
- Burnett, C. L., et al. (2024). Safety assessment of Butyrospermum parkii (shea)-derived ingredients as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 43(1 Suppl), 82S–95S. https://doi.org/10.1177/10915818231224230
10. Product-line notes
- ORY® Skincare: For external use only. Not for deep or puncture wounds, animal bites, or serious burns.
- ORY® Haircare: Designed for scalp comfort and the look and feel of hair. Not intended to treat dandruff or scalp conditions, or to promote hair growth or prevent hair loss. If you notice sudden shedding or a persistent itchy, flaking scalp, see a dermatologist.
- ORY® Handmade Soap: Handmade soap is naturally alkaline, and each bar may vary slightly in color, scent, and texture. Not intended to treat eczema or any skin condition.
- ORY® Cosmetics: Lip products are not intended to treat or protect chapped or cracked lips. Do not share applicators, and replace any product that changes color, smell, or texture.
11. References
Peer-reviewed research
- Akihisa, T., et al. (2010). Anti-inflammatory and chemopreventive effects of triterpene cinnamates and acetates from shea fat. Journal of Oleo Science, 59(6), 273–280. https://doi.org/10.5650/jos.59.273
- Burnett, C. L., et al. (2024). Safety assessment of Butyrospermum parkii (shea)-derived ingredients as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 43(1 Suppl), 82S–95S. https://doi.org/10.1177/10915818231224230
- Hon, K. L., et al. (2015). Patient acceptability, efficacy, and skin biophysiology of a cream and cleanser containing lipid complex with shea butter extract versus a ceramide product for eczema. Hong Kong Medical Journal, 21(5), 417–425. https://www.hkmj.org/abstracts/v21n5/417.htm
- Lin, T. K., Zhong, L., & Santiago, J. L. (2018). Anti-inflammatory and skin barrier repair effects of topical application of some plant oils. International Journal of Molecular Sciences, 19(1), 70. https://doi.org/10.3390/ijms19010070
- Maranz, S., & Wiesman, Z. (2004). Influence of climate on the tocopherol content of shea butter. Journal of Agricultural and Food Chemistry, 52(10), 2934–2937. https://doi.org/10.1021/jf035194r
Government and regulatory sources
- U.S. Food and Drug Administration. (2019, February 26). Sunscreen drug products for over-the-counter human use (proposed rule), 84 FR 6204. https://www.federalregister.gov/documents/2019/02/26/2019-03019/sunscreen-drug-products-for-over-the-counter-human-use
- U.S. Food and Drug Administration. Is It a Cosmetic, a Drug, or Both? (Or Is It Soap?) https://www.fda.gov/cosmetics/cosmetics-laws-regulations/it-cosmetic-drug-or-both-or-it-soap
