Panthenol

At ORY^®, we believe you should know what’s in your products and why. This page lists the published research behind what we say about panthenol (pro-vitamin B5). Each section starts with our claim, then tells you how well the research supports it, then lists the sources so you can read them yourself.

Please note: Some studies on this page tested dexpanthenol for wounds and skin disorders, which are medical uses. ORY^® products are cosmetics and are not intended to heal wounds or treat any skin condition.

1. General Description and Role

Verification: Supported. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel concluded in 2022 that panthenol, pantothenic acid, and their derivatives are safe in cosmetics in the present practices of use and concentration.

Citations:

• • Scott, L. N., Fiume, M., et al. (2022). Safety assessment of panthenol, pantothenic acid, and derivatives as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 41(3 Suppl), 77–128. https://doi.org/10.1177/10915818221124809
    • What it shows: CIR safety assessment (2022).

2. Composition and Production

Verification: Supported. Its chemistry is well documented.

Citations:

• • Scott, L. N., Fiume, M., et al. (2022). Safety assessment of panthenol, pantothenic acid, and derivatives as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 41(3 Suppl), 77–128. https://doi.org/10.1177/10915818221124809
    • What it shows: Describes chemistry.
  • Ebner, F., Heller, A., Rippke, F., & Tausch, I. (2002). Topical use of dexpanthenol in skin disorders. American Journal of Clinical Dermatology, 3(6), 427–433. https://doi.org/10.2165/00128071-200203060-00005
    • What it shows: Describes conversion in skin.

3. Skin Type Suitability

Verification: Supported. In a controlled study, dexpanthenol helped skin barrier recovery and reduced redness after irritation caused by a harsh surfactant.

Citations:

• • Proksch, E., & Nissen, H. P. (2002). Dexpanthenol enhances skin barrier repair and reduces inflammation after sodium lauryl sulphate-induced irritation. Journal of Dermatological Treatment, 13(4), 173–178. https://doi.org/10.1080/09546630212345674
    • What it shows: Controlled study of surfactant-irritated skin.

4. Hair and Scalp Suitability

Verification: Supported, with caveats. In a clinical study, a leave-on combination of panthenol, niacinamide, and caffeine increased the diameter of individual hairs. That study tested a combination product, and ORY^® does not claim panthenol grows hair or treats thinning.

Citations:

• • Davis, M. G., Thomas, J. H., van de Velde, S., et al. (2011). A novel cosmetic approach to treat thinning hair. British Journal of Dermatology, 165(Suppl 3), 24–30. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1365-2133.2011.10633.x
    • What it shows: Clinical study of a combination leave-on product.
  • U.S. Food and Drug Administration. 21 CFR 310.527 — Drug products offered over-the-counter for external use as hair growers or for hair loss prevention. https://www.law.cornell.edu/cfr/text/21/310.527
    • What it shows: FDA treats hair-growth claims as drug claims.

5. Benefits

Verification: Supported. Panthenol formulations increased skin hydration in a clinical study. A review describes dexpanthenol’s use in skin disorders and wound care; those are medical uses, and ORY^® does not make wound-healing or anti-inflammatory claims.

Citations:

• • Camargo, F. B., Jr., Gaspar, L. R., & Maia Campos, P. M. B. G. (2011). Skin moisturizing effects of panthenol-based formulations. Journal of Cosmetic Science, 62(4), 361–370. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/21982351/
    • What it shows: Clinical hydration study.
  • Ebner, F., Heller, A., Rippke, F., & Tausch, I. (2002). Topical use of dexpanthenol in skin disorders. American Journal of Clinical Dermatology, 3(6), 427–433. https://doi.org/10.2165/00128071-200203060-00005
    • What it shows: Review of dexpanthenol in skin disorders (medical uses).

6. Use Across ORY^® Product Lines

Verification: Supported. It breaks down at the high pH of cold-process soap.

Citations:

• • Scott, L. N., Fiume, M., et al. (2022). Safety assessment of panthenol, pantothenic acid, and derivatives as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 41(3 Suppl), 77–128. https://doi.org/10.1177/10915818221124809
    • What it shows: Reported uses.
  • U.S. Food and Drug Administration. 21 CFR 701.20 — Definition of “soap” (only true soap, made mainly of alkali salts of fatty acids and sold only as soap, is exempt from cosmetic rules). https://www.ecfr.gov/current/title-21/chapter-I/subchapter-G/part-701/subpart-B/section-701.20
    • What it shows: FDA definition of soap; other bars are cosmetics.

7. Pros

Verification: Supported. Supported by clinical hydration data and CIR review.

Citations:

• • Scott, L. N., Fiume, M., et al. (2022). Safety assessment of panthenol, pantothenic acid, and derivatives as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 41(3 Suppl), 77–128. https://doi.org/10.1177/10915818221124809
    • What it shows: Safety conclusion.
  • Camargo, F. B., Jr., Gaspar, L. R., & Maia Campos, P. M. B. G. (2011). Skin moisturizing effects of panthenol-based formulations. Journal of Cosmetic Science, 62(4), 361–370. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/21982351/
    • What it shows: Hydration study.

8. Cons

Verification: Supported. We list these limits so you have the full picture:

• • Tacky above about 3%.
  • pH window. Breaks down outside pH 4–7.
  • Heat-sensitive. Add below about 70 °C.
  • Rare allergy. Patch test.

Citations:

• • Scott, L. N., Fiume, M., et al. (2022). Safety assessment of panthenol, pantothenic acid, and derivatives as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 41(3 Suppl), 77–128. https://doi.org/10.1177/10915818221124809
    • What it shows: Safety data.

9. Safety Notes

Verification: Supported. Follow these precautions:

• • Patch test any new product on a small area for 24–48 hours before full use.
  • Stop use if redness, burning, itching, or rash occurs, and talk to a healthcare provider.
  • For external use only. Avoid the eyes unless the product is made for the eye area.
  • If you are pregnant, nursing, have a medical condition, or are buying for a child, ask a healthcare provider before use.

Citations:

• • Scott, L. N., Fiume, M., et al. (2022). Safety assessment of panthenol, pantothenic acid, and derivatives as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 41(3 Suppl), 77–128. https://doi.org/10.1177/10915818221124809
    • What it shows: Safety conclusion.

10. Product-line notes

• • ORY^® Skincare: For external use only. Not for deep or puncture wounds, animal bites, or serious burns.
  • ORY^® Haircare: Designed for the look and feel of hair and scalp comfort. Not intended to treat dandruff or scalp conditions, or to promote hair growth or prevent hair loss.
  • ORY^® Handmade Soap: Panthenol is used in liquid soap and syndet bars; syndet bars are cosmetics under FDA rules. Handmade soap is naturally alkaline, and each bar may vary slightly. Not intended to treat eczema or any skin condition.
  • ORY^® Cosmetics: Do not share applicators, and replace any product that changes color, smell, or texture.

11. References

Peer-reviewed research

• • Camargo, F. B., Jr., Gaspar, L. R., & Maia Campos, P. M. B. G. (2011). Skin moisturizing effects of panthenol-based formulations. Journal of Cosmetic Science, 62(4), 361–370. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/21982351/
  • Davis, M. G., Thomas, J. H., van de Velde, S., et al. (2011). A novel cosmetic approach to treat thinning hair. British Journal of Dermatology, 165(Suppl 3), 24–30. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1365-2133.2011.10633.x
  • Ebner, F., Heller, A., Rippke, F., & Tausch, I. (2002). Topical use of dexpanthenol in skin disorders. American Journal of Clinical Dermatology, 3(6), 427–433. https://doi.org/10.2165/00128071-200203060-00005
  • Proksch, E., & Nissen, H. P. (2002). Dexpanthenol enhances skin barrier repair and reduces inflammation after sodium lauryl sulphate-induced irritation. Journal of Dermatological Treatment, 13(4), 173–178. https://doi.org/10.1080/09546630212345674
  • Scott, L. N., Fiume, M., et al. (2022). Safety assessment of panthenol, pantothenic acid, and derivatives as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 41(3 Suppl), 77–128. https://doi.org/10.1177/10915818221124809

Government and regulatory sources

• • U.S. Food and Drug Administration. 21 CFR 310.527 — Drug products offered over-the-counter for external use as hair growers or for hair loss prevention. https://www.law.cornell.edu/cfr/text/21/310.527
  • U.S. Food and Drug Administration. 21 CFR 701.20 — Definition of “soap” (only true soap, made mainly of alkali salts of fatty acids and sold only as soap, is exempt from cosmetic rules). https://www.ecfr.gov/current/title-21/chapter-I/subchapter-G/part-701/subpart-B/section-701.20