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Niacinamide (Vitamin B3)
ORY® product lines:
☑ Skincare
☑ Haircare
☑ Handmade Soap (stable, mild functional value)
☑ Cosmetics — full dual-use ingredient
Niacinamide is the amide form of vitamin B3 and one of the most thoroughly studied cosmetic actives of the past 25 years. Controlled clinical trials show that 2–5% niacinamide reduces sebum production [1], visibly lightens hyperpigmentation by blocking melanosome transfer to skin cells [2], improves fine lines, sallowness, and elasticity [3], and increases the skin’s own ceramide synthesis for a stronger barrier [5]. It is water-soluble, stable, non-irritating at typical levels, and compatible with nearly every other active — which is why it appears in products for every ORY® skin type and scalp concern. In haircare, a leave-on containing niacinamide, panthenol, and caffeine increased the diameter of thinning hair fibers in a clinical study [4].
What is Niacinamide made of?
Niacinamide (C₆H₆N₂O, nicotinamide) is a small, water-soluble vitamin. Key points:
- Vitamin B3 family: Related to niacin (nicotinic acid) but does not cause flushing; it is the form used in skincare.
- Cellular role: A precursor of NAD⁺/NADP⁺ coenzymes that power cellular energy, DNA repair, and lipid synthesis in skin cells [5].
- Production: Synthesized to USP/cosmetic purity; vegan.
- Formulation: Dissolves readily in water; stable across heat and light at pH 5–7. At strongly acidic pH and high temperature it can slowly hydrolyze to niacin, which may cause temporary flushing.
What skin type is best suited for Niacinamide?
Niacinamide is one of the few actives with strong evidence across every ORY® skin type:
- Oily: 2% reduced facial sebum excretion in a 4-week controlled trial [1]; refines pores.
- Acne-prone: Anti-inflammatory; reduces papules and post-inflammatory marks; pairs with salicylic acid or benzoyl peroxide.
- Mature: 5% improved fine lines, wrinkles, hyperpigmentation, red blotchiness, sallowness, and elasticity over 12 weeks [3].
- Sensitive: Reduces redness and strengthens the barrier; use 2–4% to avoid rare flushing.
- Dry: Boosts ceramides and lowers water loss [5].
- Combination: Balances oil and hydration simultaneously.
- Normal: Preventive brightening, barrier, and antioxidant support.
What hair type is best suited for Niacinamide?
Niacinamide supports the scalp as it supports skin, and one clinical study links it to visibly thicker-looking hair:
- Oily scalp: Sebum-normalizing action helps reduce greasiness between washes.
- Mature or thinning: A niacinamide/panthenol/caffeine leave-on increased hair-fiber diameter and improved breakage resistance [4].
- Sensitive scalp: Calms redness and strengthens the scalp barrier.
- Dandruff-prone scalp: Anti-inflammatory support that complements salicylic acid, tea tree oil, or zinc.
- Dry or damaged: Improves scalp hydration; on the fiber, penetrates and may improve moisture retention.
- Color-treated, straight, wavy, curly, coily: Safe and beneficial for all as a scalp-health ingredient.
What are the benefits of Niacinamide?
Niacinamide’s benefits are unusually well documented in randomized, controlled trials:
- Oil control: 2% niacinamide reduced sebum excretion and casual sebum levels [1].
- Brightening: Inhibits melanosome transfer, reducing dark spots and uneven tone without bleaching [2].
- Anti-aging: Improves fine lines, wrinkles, elasticity, and sallowness [3].
- Barrier repair: Increases ceramide, free fatty acid, and cholesterol synthesis; reduces water loss [5].
- Anti-inflammatory: Reduces redness, rosacea-related flushing, and acne inflammation.
- Pore refinement: Less sebum and better barrier tone reduce pore appearance.
- Antioxidant / DNA support: Replenishes NAD⁺ used in cellular repair after UV stress.
- Hair and scalp: Improves scalp condition and, in combination formulas, increases hair diameter [4].
Dual use across ORY® product lines
Niacinamide’s stability and water solubility allow it to be added to every ORY® line, including cold-process soap, where it survives saponification.
| ORY® line | Dual use? | How it is used | Typical level |
|---|---|---|---|
|
ORY® Skincare |
Yes |
Serums, toners, moisturizers, cleansers, masks, sunscreens; brightening, oil-control, barrier, and anti-aging products. |
2–5% (up to 10% for experienced users) |
|
ORY® Haircare |
Yes |
Shampoos, conditioners, scalp serums, thinning-hair leave-ins, dandruff support. |
0.5–2% rinse-off; 1–3% leave-in |
|
ORY® Handmade Soap |
Yes |
Added to cooled lye water or at trace; stable in bars; offers mild soothing and label value (rinse-off limits efficacy). |
0.5–2% of batch weight |
|
ORY® Cosmetics |
Yes |
Foundations, BB/CC creams, primers, setting sprays, lip products; "skincare makeup" for oily and redness-prone skin. |
1–4% |
Pros and cons of Niacinamide
Pros
Cons
- Exceptional evidence: Multiple double-blind, vehicle-controlled trials [1, 2, 3].
- Multifunctional: Oil, pigment, aging, barrier, and redness in one ingredient.
- Stable and easy to formulate: Heat- and light-stable; survives soap making.
- Universally compatible: Works with acids, retinol, vitamin C, peptides, and HA.
- Affordable: Low cost per gram for clinical-level benefit.
- Flushing at high doses: Above 5–10% or in acidic, aged formulas, niacin formation may cause temporary redness or warmth.
- Overuse trend: Very high (20%+) concentrations offer no added benefit and more irritation.
- Gradual results: 8–12 weeks for pigmentation and wrinkle changes.
- Vitamin C myth: Concerns about combining with vitamin C are outdated at cosmetic temperatures and pH, but customers may still ask.
- Rinse-off limits: Benefits in soap and shampoo are modest compared with leave-ons.
What is the best application of Niacinamide?
Niacinamide can be used morning and night by virtually anyone:
- Serum: 4–5% applied after cleansing, AM and PM, under moisturizer and sunscreen.
- Moisturizer: Built-in for daily barrier and oil balance.
- Toner: 2–3% for hydrating oil control.
- Cleanser: Supporting ingredient; limited contact time.
- Sunscreen and makeup: Adds oil control and brightening to daytime wear.
- Scalp leave-in: 1–3% for thinning or oily scalps, applied daily to towel-dried hair.
- Shampoo/conditioner: Scalp-balancing support in all ORY® Haircare types.
- Pairing: Excellent with hyaluronic acid, zinc, salicylic acid, retinol, and peptides; buffers the irritation of exfoliants.
Peer-reviewed references
- Draelos ZD, Matsubara A, Smiles K. The effect of 2% niacinamide on facial sebum production. Journal of Cosmetic and Laser Therapy. 2006;8(2):96–101.
- Hakozaki T, Minwalla L, Zhuang J, et al. The effect of niacinamide on reducing cutaneous pigmentation and suppression of melanosome transfer. British Journal of Dermatology. 2002;147(1):20–31.
- Bissett DL, Oblong JE, Berge CA. Niacinamide: a B vitamin that improves aging facial skin appearance. Dermatologic Surgery. 2005;31(7 Pt 2):860–865.
- Davis MG, Thomas JH, van de Velde S, et al. A novel cosmetic approach to treat thinning hair. British Journal of Dermatology. 2011;165(Suppl 3):24–30.
- Tanno O, Ota Y, Kitamura N, Katsube T, Inoue S. Nicotinamide increases biosynthesis of ceramides as well as other stratum corneum lipids to improve the permeability barrier. British Journal of Dermatology. 2000;143(3):524–531.
Disclaimer:
The information on this page is provided by ORY International, LC for educational purposes only. It summarizes published research about niacinamide as an ingredient, including laboratory and animal studies and clinical studies of formulas that may differ from ORY® products. Results from these studies may not apply to every person or to ORY® products. This page is not medical advice and does not replace advice from a dermatologist, physician, or other qualified healthcare provider.
ORY® Skincare, Haircare, Handmade Soap, and Cosmetics products are cosmetics. They are not intended to diagnose, treat, cure, mitigate, or prevent any disease or condition, including acne, rosacea, melasma, dermatitis, dandruff, or hair loss. References to FDA or Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) findings describe the ingredient, not ORY® products, and do not mean FDA has reviewed or approved any ORY® product.
Results vary by skin and scalp type, formulation, and use. Niacinamide is generally well tolerated, but some people notice temporary redness or warmth, and any cosmetic can cause irritation, sometimes from other ingredients. Always patch test, follow label directions, and stop use if irritation occurs. If you are pregnant, nursing, have a medical condition, or are buying for a child, consult a healthcare provider before use.
ORY International, LC works to keep this page accurate and current but makes no warranty as to its completeness. To the fullest extent permitted by law, ORY International, LC is not liable for any loss or injury arising from reliance on this information or from use of any product contrary to its label directions. To report a reaction, contact us at [insert contact email / phone].
