No products in the cart.: $0.00
Urea
ORY® product lines:
☑ Skincare
☑ Haircare (scalp moisturizers and psoriasis-prone scalp treatments)
☒ Handmade Soap (decomposes in lye; ammonia odor)
☑ Cosmetics (limited: hand, foot, and body products; hydrating primers) — three-line dual-use ingredient
Urea is a small, water-loving molecule that the skin makes for itself: it accounts for about 7% of the natural moisturizing factor (NMF) in the stratum corneum, and its levels fall sharply in dry, aged, and eczema-prone skin [1]. Topical urea has a dose-dependent double personality. At 2–10% it is a humectant that binds water, strengthens the barrier, and — as shown in human gene-expression studies — increases the skin’s own antimicrobial peptides and barrier lipids [3]. At 20–40% it becomes keratolytic, dissolving the thick, hard skin of calluses, cracked heels, keratosis pilaris, and psoriasis plaques [1, 2]. It has been used in dermatology for more than a century and remains one of the most effective ingredients for very dry, rough, and scaly skin.
What is Urea made of?
Urea (CH₄N₂O, carbamide) is a simple organic compound. Points to know:
- Source: Cosmetic urea is synthesized from ammonia and carbon dioxide; it is vegan, identical to the urea in human skin, and unrelated to animal sources.
- Natural moisturizing factor: One of the key NMF components alongside amino acids, lactate, and PCA.
- Water-soluble, hygroscopic powder: Dissolves readily; highly effective at binding water.
- pH behavior: Urea slowly hydrolyzes to ammonia and carbon dioxide in water, raising pH over time; well-designed formulas buffer it (commonly with lactic acid) and keep pH 5–6.5.
What skin type is best suited for Urea?
Urea excels for dry, rough, and thickened skin; concentration determines the effect:
- Dry: The ideal candidate — 5–10% urea creams outperform standard emollients for dry skin and reduce relapse [1, 4].
- Mature: Restores declining NMF; improves roughness and elasticity.
- Sensitive: Low levels (2–5%) hydrate and strengthen the barrier; higher levels may sting on compromised skin.
- Combination: Use on dry cheeks and body; 5% in a light lotion.
- Normal: Body moisturizers and hand/foot care.
- Acne-prone: Mild keratolytic support in body products; on the face, keep to 3–5% in a light base.
- Oily: Facial use limited; valuable for rough body areas.
What hair type is best suited for Urea?
Urea’s scalp role parallels its skin role: hydration at low levels and scale-softening at higher levels:
- Dry or damaged: Scalp-hydrating serums; on the fiber, urea can improve moisture uptake (used in some conditioning masks).
- Dandruff-prone scalp: Softens and lifts stubborn scales; supportive for psoriasis-prone scalps alongside salicylic acid.
- Sensitive scalp: 2–5% for a tight, itchy, dehydrated scalp.
- Mature or thinning: Restores scalp NMF and comfort.
- Coily and curly: Scalp moisture support under protective styles.
- Straight, wavy, oily scalp, color-treated: Optional; scalp-only, low level.
What are the benefits of Urea?
Urea’s benefits are dose-dependent and thoroughly reviewed in the dermatology literature [1, 2, 3, 4]:
- Deep hydration: Binds water in the stratum corneum; 10% urea produces measurable, lasting hydration increases.
- Barrier repair: Up-regulates barrier lipid synthesis and tight-junction genes in human skin [3].
- Antimicrobial defense: Increases the skin’s own antimicrobial peptides, supporting resistance to infection [3].
- Keratolytic (20–40%): Dissolves keratin in calluses, cracked heels, keratosis pilaris, and psoriasis scales [1].
- Enhances penetration: Improves delivery of other actives (e.g., corticosteroids, antifungals) — and of ORY® actives such as niacinamide.
- Anti-itch: Reduces pruritus in dry and eczema-prone skin [4].
- Scalp scale softening: Loosens plaques in scaly-scalp conditions.
Dual use across ORY® product lines
Urea performs in leave-on skincare, scalp care, and hand/foot cosmetics. It should not be used in cold-process soap: the alkaline environment decomposes urea and releases ammonia, spoiling the bar.
| ORY® line | Dual use? | How it is used | Typical level |
|---|---|---|---|
|
ORY® Skincare |
Yes |
Face and body moisturizers (2–10%), hand and foot creams (10–25%), keratosis pilaris lotions (10–20%), callus and heel treatments (25–40%). |
2–10% hydrating; 10–40% keratolytic |
|
ORY® Haircare |
Yes |
Scalp hydrating serums, scale-softening scalp treatments, conditioning masks. |
2–5% hydrating; 5–10% scale-softening |
|
ORY® Handmade Soap |
No |
Decomposes in lye to ammonia; unstable and malodorous. Use glycerin, sodium lactate, or oats for a moisturizing bar. |
— |
|
ORY® Cosmetics |
Limited |
Hand and nail-cuticle treatments, foot products, hydrating body makeup prep, low-level hydrating primers. |
2–5% |
Pros and cons of Urea
Pros
Cons
- Skin-identical: A native NMF molecule; highly biocompatible.
- Two actions in one: Hydrates at low doses, exfoliates at high doses.
- Strong clinical support: Decades of use and controlled studies for dry skin, eczema, psoriasis, and ichthyosis [1, 2, 4].
- Barrier and immune benefits: Gene-level evidence for barrier and antimicrobial-peptide up-regulation [3].
- Affordable: Commodity ingredient with premium-level efficacy.
- Stinging: On cracked, inflamed, or freshly shaved skin, especially above 10%.
- Formulation instability: Hydrolyzes over time, raising pH and releasing ammonia odor; needs buffering and good packaging.
- Not for soap: Incompatible with alkaline soap making.
- Consumer perception: Some customers associate urea with urine; education that cosmetic urea is synthetic and skin-identical is needed.
- Over-exfoliation: High-strength products must be confined to thick skin (heels, calluses).
What is the best application of Urea?
Choose the urea concentration for the job:
- Daily body lotion: 5–10% for dry, rough, or eczema-prone skin; apply to damp skin after showering.
- Face moisturizer: 2–5% for dry or mature skin, often combined with lactic acid and ceramides.
- Hand cream: 10% for dry, working hands.
- Foot and heel cream: 20–40% nightly on calluses and cracked heels; cover with socks.
- Keratosis pilaris lotion: 10–20% with lactic or salicylic acid on upper arms and thighs.
- Scalp serum: 3–5% for dry, tight scalps; 5–10% for scaly scalps, applied before shampooing.
- Cuticle and nail treatment: 5–10% to soften cuticles and hydrate nails.
- Pairing: Lactic acid (buffering and synergy), ceramides, glycerin, niacinamide, and salicylic acid.
Peer-reviewed references
- Piquero-Casals J, Morgado-Carrasco D, Granger C, Trullàs C, Jesús-Silva A, Krutmann J. Urea in dermatology: a review of its emollient, moisturizing, keratolytic, skin barrier, and antimicrobial properties. Dermatology and Therapy (Heidelberg). 2021;11(6):1905–1915.
- Celleno L. Topical urea in skincare: a review. Dermatologic Therapy. 2018;31(6):e12690.
- Grether-Beck S, Felsner I, Brenden H, et al. Urea uptake enhances barrier function and antimicrobial defense in humans by regulating epidermal gene expression. Journal of Investigative Dermatology. 2012;132(6):1561–1572.
- Lodén M. Role of topical emollients and moisturizers in the treatment of dry skin barrier disorders. American Journal of Clinical Dermatology. 2003;4(11):771–788.
Disclaimer:
The information on this page is provided by ORY International, LC for educational purposes only. It summarizes published research about urea as an ingredient, including laboratory and animal studies and clinical studies of formulas that may differ from ORY® products. Results from these studies may not apply to every person or to ORY® products. This page is not medical advice and does not replace advice from a dermatologist, physician, or other qualified healthcare provider.
ORY® Skincare, Haircare, and Cosmetics products are cosmetics. They are not intended to diagnose, treat, cure, mitigate, or prevent any disease or condition, including eczema, atopic dermatitis, psoriasis, ichthyosis, keratosis pilaris, calluses, corns, infections, or itching caused by a skin condition. References to FDA or Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) findings describe the ingredient, not ORY® products, and do not mean FDA has reviewed or approved any ORY® product.
Results vary by skin and scalp type, formulation, and use. Urea can sting on cracked, irritated, or freshly shaved skin, especially at higher strengths, and any cosmetic can cause irritation, sometimes from other ingredients. Always patch test, follow label directions, and stop use if irritation occurs. If you are pregnant, nursing, have a medical condition, or are buying for a child, consult a healthcare provider before use.
ORY International, LC works to keep this page accurate and current but makes no warranty as to its completeness. To the fullest extent permitted by law, ORY International, LC is not liable for any loss or injury arising from reliance on this information or from use of any product contrary to its label directions. To report a reaction, contact us at [insert contact email / phone].
