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Montanov 68 (Vegetal)
ORY® product lines:
☑ Skincare
☑ Haircare
◐ Handmade Soap (limited: lotion and syndet bars)
☑ Cosmetics — three-line functional ingredient
Montanov 68 is a natural-origin, PEG-free emulsifier made from cetearyl alcohol and cetearyl glucoside — a sugar-derived (alkyl polyglucoside) surfactant — that forms lamellar liquid-crystal emulsions resembling the lipid bilayers of the skin’s own barrier. This liquid-crystal structure holds water between layers and releases it gradually, and studies of alkyl-glucoside emulsifiers show these lamellar systems improve skin hydration and stability compared with conventional emulsions [1]. Both components are reviewed as safe by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Panel [2, 3]. Montanov 68 is COSMOS/Ecocert-approved, palm-free in its “Vegetal” grade, and tolerant of acids and many electrolytes, making it ORY®‘s preferred emulsifier for natural-positioned creams, sensitive-skin lotions, and formulas carrying AHAs, vitamin C, or niacinamide.
What is Montanov 68 (Vegetal) made of?
Montanov 68 is a co-processed blend of a plant fatty alcohol and a sugar-based glucoside. Composition [1, 2, 3]:
- Cetearyl alcohol (~80%): C16/C18 fatty alcohol; emollient, thickener, lamellar structurant (coconut or rapeseed-derived in the Vegetal grade).
- Cetearyl glucoside (~20%): Alkyl polyglucoside from fatty alcohol and glucose; non-ionic, PEG-free, biodegradable emulsifier.
- Lamellar liquid-crystal emulsifier: Builds skin-mimetic bilayers that trap water and improve hydration [1].
- HLB ~8; non-ionic; pH-tolerant (3–12).
- White flakes; melts at ~65 °C; COSMOS-approved; palm-free Vegetal grade.
What skin type is best suited for Montanov 68 (Vegetal)?
Montanov 68 suits all seven ORY® skin types and is especially valued for sensitive and dry skin:
- Dry: Fatty-alcohol emollience softens and reduces water loss; Montanov 68 lets ORY® build richer creams.
- Sensitive: Non-irritating, fragrance-free structural ingredient; suitable for reactive and eczema-prone skin (rare fatty-alcohol allergy — patch test).
- Mature: Supports rich, cushioning creams and barrier balms.
- Normal: Everyday lotion and cream structure.
- Combination: Adjust level for lighter lotions.
- Oily: Light lotions at 2–3% feel silky and non-greasy.
- Acne-prone: Low comedogenicity at typical levels; keep formulas light.
What hair type is best suited for Montanov 68 (Vegetal)?
Montanov 68 builds natural, non-ionic hair creams and light conditioners:
- Curly and coily: Natural curl creams and leave-ins with lasting hydration.
- Dry or damaged: Hydrating hair masks and creams (add BTMS for cationic conditioning).
- Sensitive scalp: Gentle, PEG-free scalp creams and treatments.
- Straight and wavy: Light leave-in creams.
- Color-treated: Acid-tolerant; compatible with low-pH color-care formulas.
- Oily scalp, dandruff-prone, mature or thinning: Neutral base for scalp treatments.
What are the benefits of Montanov 68 (Vegetal)?
Montanov 68’s benefits combine natural positioning with performance [1, 2, 3]:
- Lamellar hydration: Liquid-crystal structure holds and slowly releases water; improved skin hydration versus conventional emulsions [1].
- Complete O/W emulsifier: Builds lotions and creams alone.
- PEG-free and biodegradable: COSMOS/Ecocert-approved.
- Acid- and active-tolerant: Stable with AHAs, vitamin C, niacinamide, and moderate electrolytes.
- Emollient: Soft, silky, skin-like feel [2].
- Thickening: Viscosity without gums.
- Gentle: Suitable for baby and sensitive-skin products.
Dual use across ORY® product lines
Montanov 68 serves natural lotions, creams, hair creams, and cosmetics; not used in cold-process soap, but suitable for solid lotion and syndet bars.
| ORY® line | Dual use? | How it is used | Typical level |
|---|---|---|---|
|
ORY® Skincare |
Yes |
Natural face and body creams, sensitive-skin lotions, active-rich creams (AHA, vitamin C), baby lotions, sunscreens. |
2–6% |
|
ORY® Haircare |
Yes |
Curl creams, leave-ins, hair masks, scalp creams (non-cationic). |
2–5% |
|
ORY® Handmade Soap |
Limited |
Not in cold-process soap; used in lotion bars and syndet bars. |
5–15% in solid bars |
|
ORY® Cosmetics |
Yes |
Natural foundations, BB creams, cream blush, mineral sunscreens. |
2–5% |
Pros and cons of Montanov 68 (Vegetal)
Pros
Cons
- Natural, PEG-free, COSMOS-approved: Clean-label credibility.
- Skin-mimetic hydration: Lamellar structure [1].
- Broad pH and active tolerance: Works with acids.
- Palm-free Vegetal grade: Sustainability.
- Silky sensory: Premium feel.
- Cost: Higher than Emulsifying Wax NF.
- Slower to thicken: Viscosity builds over 24 hours; may need a co-thickener or extra fatty alcohol.
- Higher processing temperature: ~75–80 °C.
- Alkyl-glucoside allergy: Documented but uncommon (Allergen of the Year 2017); patch test [3].
- No cationic conditioning: Add BTMS for detangling conditioners.
What is the best application of Montanov 68 (Vegetal)?
Montanov 68 is the base of ORY® natural and active-rich creams:
- Sensitive-skin lotion: 3% with 1% cetearyl alcohol.
- Active cream (AHA/vitamin C): 4–5%.
- Rich cream: 5–6% with butters.
- Baby lotion: 3%.
- Curl cream: 3–4%.
- Lotion bar: 5–15%.
- Cosmetics: Natural foundation base.
Peer-reviewed references
- Savić S, Lukić M, Jakšić I, Vuleta G, Tamburić S, Müller-Goymann CC. An alkyl polyglucoside-mixed emulsifier as stabilizer of emulsion systems: the influence of colloidal structure on emulsions skin hydration potential. Journal of Colloid and Interface Science. 2011;358(1):182–191.
- Elder RL (ed). Final report on the safety assessment of cetearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, and behenyl alcohol. Journal of the American College of Toxicology. 1988;7(3):359–413.
- Fiume MM, Heldreth B, Bergfeld WF, et al. Safety assessment of decyl glucoside and other alkyl glucosides as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology. 2013;32(5 Suppl):22S–48S.
Disclaimer:
The information on this page is provided by ORY International, LC for educational purposes only. It summarizes published research about Montanov™ 68 (cetearyl alcohol and cetearyl glucoside) as an ingredient, including laboratory and animal studies and clinical studies of formulas that may differ from ORY® products. Results from these studies may not apply to every person or to ORY® products. This page is not medical advice and does not replace advice from a dermatologist, physician, or other qualified healthcare provider.
ORY® Skincare, Haircare, Handmade Soap, and Cosmetics products are cosmetics. They are not intended to diagnose, treat, cure, mitigate, or prevent any disease or condition, including eczema, dermatitis, acne, dandruff, or any other condition. References to FDA or Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) findings describe the ingredient, not ORY® products, and do not mean FDA has reviewed or approved any ORY® product.
Results vary by skin and scalp type, formulation, and use. Alkyl glucosides such as cetearyl glucoside are an uncommon but recognized cause of allergic contact dermatitis, and any cosmetic can cause irritation, sometimes from other ingredients. Always patch test, follow label directions, and stop use if irritation occurs. If you are pregnant, nursing, have a medical condition, or are buying for a child, consult a healthcare provider before use.
ORY International, LC works to keep this page accurate and current but makes no warranty as to its completeness. To the fullest extent permitted by law, ORY International, LC is not liable for any loss or injury arising from reliance on this information or from use of any product contrary to its label directions. To report a reaction, contact us at [insert contact email / phone].
