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Azulene Extract
At ORY®, we believe you should know what’s in your products and why. This page lists the published research behind what we say about azulene extract. Each section starts with our claim, then tells you how well the research supports it, then lists the sources so you can read them yourself.
How to read this page Supported — backed by peer-reviewed research or official safety reviews. Supported, with caveats — the research points this way, but mostly from laboratory or animal studies, or at different strengths than ORY® uses. Limited evidence — little or no published research yet. We say so openly. |
1. General Description and Role
Claim: Azulene is a blue compound that forms when German chamomile, blue tansy, or yarrow is steam-distilled (chamazulene), or is made as the more stable guaiazulene. In ORY® products it helps calm the look of redness and helps skin feel comfortable, including after shaving or waxing. |
Verification: Supported, with caveats. Laboratory studies show chamazulene blocks an inflammatory pathway (leukotriene B4) and that its precursor behaves like a natural anti-inflammatory. We found few controlled human studies of azulene on its own in skin care. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) found chamomile-derived ingredients safe when formulated to be non-sensitizing.
Citations:
- Safayhi, H., Sabieraj, J., Sailer, E. R., & Ammon, H. P. (1994). Chamazulene: An antioxidant-type inhibitor of leukotriene B4 formation. Planta Medica, 60(5), 410–413. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/7997466/
- What it shows: Lab study: chamazulene inhibited leukotriene B4 formation.
- Ramadan, M., Goeters, S., Watzer, B., et al. (2006). Chamazulene carboxylic acid and matricin: A natural profen and its natural prodrug, identified through similarity to synthetic drug substances. Journal of Natural Products, 69(7), 1041–1045. https://doi.org/10.1021/np0601556
- What it shows: Lab study: chamazulene carboxylic acid acts like a profen-type anti-inflammatory.
- Johnson, W., Boyer, I., Bergfeld, W. F., et al. (2018). Amended safety assessment of Chamomilla recutita-derived ingredients as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 37(3 Suppl), 51S–79S. https://doi.org/10.1177/1091581818801814
- What it shows: CIR safety conclusion for chamomile-derived ingredients.
- Safayhi, H., Sabieraj, J., Sailer, E. R., & Ammon, H. P. (1994). Chamazulene: An antioxidant-type inhibitor of leukotriene B4 formation. Planta Medica, 60(5), 410–413. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/7997466/
2. Composition and Production
Claim: Azulene extract is obtained by steam distillation of chamomile, blue tansy, or yarrow flowers (heat converts matricin to chamazulene), or as guaiazulene from guaiac wood or synthesis. ORY® prefers chamomile or guaiazulene grades over camphor-containing blue tansy. |
Verification: Supported. The chemistry of chamazulene and its formation from matricin are documented.
Citations:
- Ramadan, M., Goeters, S., Watzer, B., et al. (2006). Chamazulene carboxylic acid and matricin: A natural profen and its natural prodrug, identified through similarity to synthetic drug substances. Journal of Natural Products, 69(7), 1041–1045. https://doi.org/10.1021/np0601556
- What it shows: Describes matricin and chamazulene carboxylic acid.
- Srivastava, J. K., Shankar, E., & Gupta, S. (2010). Chamomile: A herbal medicine of the past with a bright future. Molecular Medicine Reports, 3(6), 895–901. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/21132119/
- What it shows: Review of chamomile composition, including chamazulene.
- Ramadan, M., Goeters, S., Watzer, B., et al. (2006). Chamazulene carboxylic acid and matricin: A natural profen and its natural prodrug, identified through similarity to synthetic drug substances. Journal of Natural Products, 69(7), 1041–1045. https://doi.org/10.1021/np0601556
3. Skin Type Suitability
Claim: Azulene suits sensitive, dry, normal, combination, and mature skin, and oily skin at low levels. It is used to help calm the look of redness. |
Verification: Supported, with caveats. Calming effects are supported by lab research. Because azulene sources are daisy-family plants, allergic individuals should patch test.
Citations:
- Safayhi, H., Sabieraj, J., Sailer, E. R., & Ammon, H. P. (1994). Chamazulene: An antioxidant-type inhibitor of leukotriene B4 formation. Planta Medica, 60(5), 410–413. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/7997466/
- What it shows: Anti-inflammatory mechanism (lab).
- Johnson, W., Boyer, I., Bergfeld, W. F., et al. (2018). Amended safety assessment of Chamomilla recutita-derived ingredients as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 37(3 Suppl), 51S–79S. https://doi.org/10.1177/1091581818801814
- What it shows: Sensitization discussion for chamomile ingredients.
- Safayhi, H., Sabieraj, J., Sailer, E. R., & Ammon, H. P. (1994). Chamazulene: An antioxidant-type inhibitor of leukotriene B4 formation. Planta Medica, 60(5), 410–413. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/7997466/
4. Hair and Scalp Suitability
Claim: In haircare, azulene helps the scalp feel calm and comfortable, including after coloring. |
Verification: Limited evidence. We found no clinical studies of azulene on the scalp. ORY® haircare products are not intended to treat dandruff or scalp conditions.
Citations:
- Srivastava, J. K., Shankar, E., & Gupta, S. (2010). Chamomile: A herbal medicine of the past with a bright future. Molecular Medicine Reports, 3(6), 895–901. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/21132119/
- What it shows: General chamomile review; no scalp trials.
- Srivastava, J. K., Shankar, E., & Gupta, S. (2010). Chamomile: A herbal medicine of the past with a bright future. Molecular Medicine Reports, 3(6), 895–901. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/21132119/
5. Benefits
Claim: Azulene helps calm the look of redness, helps skin feel comfortable after shaving or waxing, and provides antioxidant support. |
Verification: Supported, with caveats. Anti-inflammatory and antioxidant effects are supported by lab studies. Wound-healing and antimicrobial effects reported for chamomile are medical uses; ORY® does not claim them.
Citations:
- Safayhi, H., Sabieraj, J., Sailer, E. R., & Ammon, H. P. (1994). Chamazulene: An antioxidant-type inhibitor of leukotriene B4 formation. Planta Medica, 60(5), 410–413. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/7997466/
- What it shows: Antioxidant-type anti-inflammatory activity (lab).
- Srivastava, J. K., Shankar, E., & Gupta, S. (2010). Chamomile: A herbal medicine of the past with a bright future. Molecular Medicine Reports, 3(6), 895–901. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/21132119/
- What it shows: Review of chamomile’s reported properties.
- Safayhi, H., Sabieraj, J., Sailer, E. R., & Ammon, H. P. (1994). Chamazulene: An antioxidant-type inhibitor of leukotriene B4 formation. Planta Medica, 60(5), 410–413. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/7997466/
6. Use Across ORY® Product Lines
Claim: Azulene is used in all four ORY® product lines at very low levels. |
Verification: Supported, with caveats. Only guaiazulene is an FDA-approved color additive for externally applied cosmetics; other azulene-rich oils are used for skin-comfort purposes, not for color. Azulene fades in light and in high-pH soap.
| Product line | Typical level | How ORY® uses it |
| Skincare | 0.01–0.5% azulene | Calming serums and creams, after-shave balms, and masks. |
| Haircare | 0.05–0.3% | Shampoos, conditioners, and scalp serums. |
| Handmade Soap | 0.1–0.5% of oil weight | Added for a gentle-feeling bar. |
| Cosmetics | 0.05–0.3% | Primers, foundations, and lip balms. |
Citations:
- U.S. Food and Drug Administration. 21 CFR 73.2180 — Guaiazulene (color additive permitted in externally applied cosmetics). https://www.ecfr.gov/current/title-21/chapter-I/subchapter-A/part-73/subpart-C/section-73.2180
- What it shows: FDA approval of guaiazulene as a color additive for externally applied cosmetics.
- U.S. Food and Drug Administration. Color Additives and Cosmetics: Fact Sheet; 21 CFR 70.3(g) and Part 73, Subpart C (color additives permitted in cosmetics). https://www.fda.gov/industry/color-additives/color-additives-and-cosmetics-fact-sheet
- What it shows: FDA rules on color additives in cosmetics.
- U.S. Food and Drug Administration. Is It a Cosmetic, a Drug, or Both? (Or Is It Soap?) https://www.fda.gov/cosmetics/cosmetics-laws-regulations/it-cosmetic-drug-or-both-or-it-soap
- What it shows: FDA explains how soap is regulated.
- U.S. Food and Drug Administration. 21 CFR 73.2180 — Guaiazulene (color additive permitted in externally applied cosmetics). https://www.ecfr.gov/current/title-21/chapter-I/subchapter-A/part-73/subpart-C/section-73.2180
7. Pros
Claim: Effective at very low levels, oil-soluble, and gentle for most people. |
Verification: Supported, with caveats. Supported by lab studies and long cosmetic use.
Citations:
- Safayhi, H., Sabieraj, J., Sailer, E. R., & Ammon, H. P. (1994). Chamazulene: An antioxidant-type inhibitor of leukotriene B4 formation. Planta Medica, 60(5), 410–413. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/7997466/
- What it shows: Mechanism.
- Safayhi, H., Sabieraj, J., Sailer, E. R., & Ammon, H. P. (1994). Chamazulene: An antioxidant-type inhibitor of leukotriene B4 formation. Planta Medica, 60(5), 410–413. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/7997466/
8. Cons
Claim: Azulene fades in light, can be costly, may cause allergy in daisy-family-sensitive people, and has few human trials. |
Verification: Supported. We list these limits so you have the full picture:
- Color instability. Fades with light and oxygen.
- Allergy. Daisy-family plants can cause reactions.
- Blue tansy contains camphor. ORY® prefers chamomile or guaiazulene grades.
- Limited human trials. Most evidence is from the lab.
Citations:
- Johnson, W., Boyer, I., Bergfeld, W. F., et al. (2018). Amended safety assessment of Chamomilla recutita-derived ingredients as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 37(3 Suppl), 51S–79S. https://doi.org/10.1177/1091581818801814
- What it shows: Sensitization and constituent cautions.
- Johnson, W., Boyer, I., Bergfeld, W. F., et al. (2018). Amended safety assessment of Chamomilla recutita-derived ingredients as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 37(3 Suppl), 51S–79S. https://doi.org/10.1177/1091581818801814
9. Safety Notes
Claim: Patch test before use; for external use only. |
Verification: Supported. Follow these precautions:
- Patch test any new product on a small area for 24–48 hours before full use.
- If you are allergic to ragweed, chamomile, daisies, or other plants in the daisy (Asteraceae) family, patch test carefully or avoid this product.
- Stop use if redness, burning, itching, or rash occurs, and talk to a healthcare provider.
- For external use only. Avoid the eyes. Do not use on broken or seriously damaged skin.
- If you are pregnant, nursing, have a medical condition, or are buying for a child, ask a healthcare provider before use.
Citations:
- Johnson, W., Boyer, I., Bergfeld, W. F., et al. (2018). Amended safety assessment of Chamomilla recutita-derived ingredients as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 37(3 Suppl), 51S–79S. https://doi.org/10.1177/1091581818801814
- What it shows: Safety data for chamomile-derived ingredients.
- Johnson, W., Boyer, I., Bergfeld, W. F., et al. (2018). Amended safety assessment of Chamomilla recutita-derived ingredients as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 37(3 Suppl), 51S–79S. https://doi.org/10.1177/1091581818801814
10. Product-line notes
- ORY® Skincare: For external use only. Not for deep or puncture wounds, animal bites, or serious burns.
- ORY® Haircare: Designed for scalp comfort and the look and feel of hair. Not intended to treat dandruff or scalp conditions, or to promote hair growth or prevent hair loss. If you notice sudden shedding or a persistent itchy, flaking scalp, see a dermatologist.
- ORY® Handmade Soap: Handmade soap is naturally alkaline, and each bar may vary slightly in color, scent, and texture. Not intended to treat eczema or any skin condition.
- ORY® Cosmetics: Lip products are not intended to treat or protect chapped or cracked lips. Do not share applicators, and replace any product that changes color, smell, or texture.
11. References
Peer-reviewed research
- Johnson, W., Boyer, I., Bergfeld, W. F., et al. (2018). Amended safety assessment of Chamomilla recutita-derived ingredients as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 37(3 Suppl), 51S–79S. https://doi.org/10.1177/1091581818801814
- Ramadan, M., Goeters, S., Watzer, B., et al. (2006). Chamazulene carboxylic acid and matricin: A natural profen and its natural prodrug, identified through similarity to synthetic drug substances. Journal of Natural Products, 69(7), 1041–1045. https://doi.org/10.1021/np0601556
- Safayhi, H., Sabieraj, J., Sailer, E. R., & Ammon, H. P. (1994). Chamazulene: An antioxidant-type inhibitor of leukotriene B4 formation. Planta Medica, 60(5), 410–413. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/7997466/
- Srivastava, J. K., Shankar, E., & Gupta, S. (2010). Chamomile: A herbal medicine of the past with a bright future. Molecular Medicine Reports, 3(6), 895–901. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/21132119/
Government and regulatory sources
- U.S. Food and Drug Administration. 21 CFR 73.2180 — Guaiazulene (color additive permitted in externally applied cosmetics). https://www.ecfr.gov/current/title-21/chapter-I/subchapter-A/part-73/subpart-C/section-73.2180
- U.S. Food and Drug Administration. Color Additives and Cosmetics: Fact Sheet; 21 CFR 70.3(g) and Part 73, Subpart C (color additives permitted in cosmetics). https://www.fda.gov/industry/color-additives/color-additives-and-cosmetics-fact-sheet
- U.S. Food and Drug Administration. Is It a Cosmetic, a Drug, or Both? (Or Is It Soap?) https://www.fda.gov/cosmetics/cosmetics-laws-regulations/it-cosmetic-drug-or-both-or-it-soap
