Niacinamide (Vitamin B3)

At ORY^®, we believe you should know what’s in your products and why. This page lists the published research behind what we say about niacinamide. Each section starts with our claim, then tells you how well the research supports it, then lists the sources so you can read them yourself.

1. General Description and Role

Verification: Supported. Multiple controlled human studies support these effects at 2–5%. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel found niacinamide safe as used in cosmetics.

Citations:

• • Bissett, D. L., Oblong, J. E., & Berge, C. A. (2005). Niacinamide: A B vitamin that improves aging facial skin appearance. Dermatologic Surgery, 31(7 Pt 2), 860–865. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1524-4725.2005.31732
    • What it shows: Human study of 5% niacinamide on aging facial skin.
  • Hakozaki, T., Minwalla, L., Zhuang, J., et al. (2002). The effect of niacinamide on reducing cutaneous pigmentation and suppression of melanosome transfer. British Journal of Dermatology, 147(1), 20–31. https://doi.org/10.1046/j.1365-2133.2002.04834.x
    • What it shows: Human and lab studies on dark spots.
  • Andersen, F. A. (Ed.). (2005). Final report of the safety assessment of niacinamide and niacin. International Journal of Toxicology, 24(Suppl 5), 1–31. https://doi.org/10.1080/10915810500434183
    • What it shows: CIR safety review: safe as used in cosmetics.

2. Composition and Production

Verification: Supported. Chemistry and stability in typical cosmetic formulas are well documented.

Citations:

• • Andersen, F. A. (Ed.). (2005). Final report of the safety assessment of niacinamide and niacin. International Journal of Toxicology, 24(Suppl 5), 1–31. https://doi.org/10.1080/10915810500434183
    • What it shows: Describes niacinamide, its relationship to niacin, and its cosmetic uses.

3. Skin Type Suitability

Verification: Supported. The CIR reported no stinging at up to 10% and no irritation at up to 5% in clinical testing, and found niacinamide was not a sensitizer. Effects on oil, tone, and texture come from controlled human studies.

Citations:

• • Andersen, F. A. (Ed.). (2005). Final report of the safety assessment of niacinamide and niacin. International Journal of Toxicology, 24(Suppl 5), 1–31. https://doi.org/10.1080/10915810500434183
    • What it shows: Irritation, stinging, and sensitization testing.
  • Draelos, Z. D., Matsubara, A., & Smiles, K. (2006). The effect of 2% niacinamide on facial sebum production. Journal of Cosmetic and Laser Therapy, 8(2), 96–101. https://doi.org/10.1080/14764170600717704
    • What it shows: Human study: 2% niacinamide reduced facial sebum.
  • Bissett, D. L., Oblong, J. E., & Berge, C. A. (2005). Niacinamide: A B vitamin that improves aging facial skin appearance. Dermatologic Surgery, 31(7 Pt 2), 860–865. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1524-4725.2005.31732
    • What it shows: Human study: improved texture, tone, and fine lines.

4. Hair and Scalp Suitability

Verification: Supported, with caveats. A published study found a leave-on product combining niacinamide with panthenol, caffeine, and other ingredients increased the diameter of individual hair fibers, making hair look thicker. The study tested a combination product, so the effect cannot be credited to niacinamide alone. ORY^® haircare products are not intended to grow hair, prevent hair loss, or treat scalp conditions.

Citations:

• • Davis, M. G., Thomas, J. H., van de Velde, S., et al. (2011). A novel cosmetic approach to treat thinning hair. British Journal of Dermatology, 165(Suppl 3), 24–30. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1365-2133.2011.10633.x
    • What it shows: Study of a leave-on combination product on hair-fiber diameter.
  • U.S. Food and Drug Administration. 21 CFR 310.527 — Drug products offered over-the-counter for external use as hair growers or for hair loss prevention. https://www.law.cornell.edu/cfr/text/21/310.527
    • What it shows: FDA treats products marketed to grow hair or prevent hair loss as drugs.

5. Benefits

Verification: Supported. Each of these is supported by controlled human or laboratory research. Results build gradually over 4 to 12 weeks.

Citations:

• • Draelos, Z. D., Matsubara, A., & Smiles, K. (2006). The effect of 2% niacinamide on facial sebum production. Journal of Cosmetic and Laser Therapy, 8(2), 96–101. https://doi.org/10.1080/14764170600717704
    • What it shows: 2% niacinamide reduced sebum in a controlled study.
  • Hakozaki, T., Minwalla, L., Zhuang, J., et al. (2002). The effect of niacinamide on reducing cutaneous pigmentation and suppression of melanosome transfer. British Journal of Dermatology, 147(1), 20–31. https://doi.org/10.1046/j.1365-2133.2002.04834.x
    • What it shows: Reduced the look of hyperpigmentation by limiting pigment transfer to skin cells.
  • Bissett, D. L., Oblong, J. E., & Berge, C. A. (2005). Niacinamide: A B vitamin that improves aging facial skin appearance. Dermatologic Surgery, 31(7 Pt 2), 860–865. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1524-4725.2005.31732
    • What it shows: 5% niacinamide improved fine lines, blotchiness, sallowness, and elasticity over 12 weeks.
  • Tanno, O., Ota, Y., Kitamura, N., Katsube, T., & Inoue, S. (2000). Nicotinamide increases biosynthesis of ceramides as well as other stratum corneum lipids to improve the epidermal permeability barrier. British Journal of Dermatology, 143(3), 524–531. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/10971324/
    • What it shows: Increased ceramides and other barrier lipids and reduced water loss.

6. Use Across ORY^® Product Lines

Verification: Supported, with caveats. Skin-care levels match those used in clinical studies. The CIR reported use at up to 3% in 2005; clinical testing found no stinging at up to 10%. We found no published data on how much niacinamide survives cold-process soapmaking, and benefits in rinse-off products are modest, so ORY^® makes no efficacy claims for soap.

Citations:

• • Andersen, F. A. (Ed.). (2005). Final report of the safety assessment of niacinamide and niacin. International Journal of Toxicology, 24(Suppl 5), 1–31. https://doi.org/10.1080/10915810500434183
    • What it shows: Reported use concentrations and irritation testing.
  • U.S. Food and Drug Administration. Is It a Cosmetic, a Drug, or Both? (Or Is It Soap?) https://www.fda.gov/cosmetics/cosmetics-laws-regulations/it-cosmetic-drug-or-both-or-it-soap
    • What it shows: FDA explains how soap is regulated.

7. Pros

Verification: Supported. Supported by multiple controlled human studies.

Citations:

• • Bissett, D. L., Oblong, J. E., & Berge, C. A. (2005). Niacinamide: A B vitamin that improves aging facial skin appearance. Dermatologic Surgery, 31(7 Pt 2), 860–865. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1524-4725.2005.31732
    • What it shows: Clinical evidence.
  • Draelos, Z. D., Matsubara, A., & Smiles, K. (2006). The effect of 2% niacinamide on facial sebum production. Journal of Cosmetic and Laser Therapy, 8(2), 96–101. https://doi.org/10.1080/14764170600717704
    • What it shows: Clinical evidence.

8. Cons

Verification: Supported. We list these limits so you have the full picture:

• • Flushing. Temporary redness or warmth can occur, especially at higher strengths.
  • Higher isn’t better. Very high concentrations (20% and up) are not supported by research.
  • Gradual results. Changes in tone and lines take 8–12 weeks.
  • Rinse-off limits. Benefits in soap and shampoo are modest compared with leave-on products.

Citations:

• • Bissett, D. L., Oblong, J. E., & Berge, C. A. (2005). Niacinamide: A B vitamin that improves aging facial skin appearance. Dermatologic Surgery, 31(7 Pt 2), 860–865. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1524-4725.2005.31732
    • What it shows: Shows the 12-week time frame for visible results.
  • Andersen, F. A. (Ed.). (2005). Final report of the safety assessment of niacinamide and niacin. International Journal of Toxicology, 24(Suppl 5), 1–31. https://doi.org/10.1080/10915810500434183
    • What it shows: Tolerance data at up to 10%.

9. Safety Notes

Verification: Supported. Follow these precautions:

• • Patch test any new product on a small area for 24–48 hours before full use, especially if you flush easily.
  • Start at 2–4% if you have sensitive skin.
  • Stop use if redness, burning, itching, or rash persists.
  • For external use only. Avoid the eyes.
  • If you are pregnant, nursing, have a medical condition, or are buying for a child, ask a healthcare provider before use.

Citations:

• • Andersen, F. A. (Ed.). (2005). Final report of the safety assessment of niacinamide and niacin. International Journal of Toxicology, 24(Suppl 5), 1–31. https://doi.org/10.1080/10915810500434183
    • What it shows: Safety data reviewed by the CIR.

10. Product-line notes

• • ORY^® Skincare: For external use only. Not for deep or puncture wounds, animal bites, or serious burns.
  • ORY^® Haircare: Designed for scalp comfort and the look and feel of hair. Not intended to treat dandruff or scalp conditions, or to promote hair growth or prevent hair loss. If you notice sudden shedding or a persistent itchy, flaking scalp, see a dermatologist.
  • ORY^® Handmade Soap: Handmade soap is naturally alkaline, and each bar may vary slightly in color, scent, and texture. Not intended to treat eczema or any skin condition.
  • ORY^® Cosmetics: Lip products are not intended to treat or protect chapped or cracked lips. Do not share applicators, and replace any product that changes color, smell, or texture.

11. References

Peer-reviewed research

• • Andersen, F. A. (Ed.). (2005). Final report of the safety assessment of niacinamide and niacin. International Journal of Toxicology, 24(Suppl 5), 1–31. https://doi.org/10.1080/10915810500434183
  • Bissett, D. L., Oblong, J. E., & Berge, C. A. (2005). Niacinamide: A B vitamin that improves aging facial skin appearance. Dermatologic Surgery, 31(7 Pt 2), 860–865. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1524-4725.2005.31732
  • Davis, M. G., Thomas, J. H., van de Velde, S., et al. (2011). A novel cosmetic approach to treat thinning hair. British Journal of Dermatology, 165(Suppl 3), 24–30. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1365-2133.2011.10633.x
  • Draelos, Z. D., Matsubara, A., & Smiles, K. (2006). The effect of 2% niacinamide on facial sebum production. Journal of Cosmetic and Laser Therapy, 8(2), 96–101. https://doi.org/10.1080/14764170600717704
  • Hakozaki, T., Minwalla, L., Zhuang, J., et al. (2002). The effect of niacinamide on reducing cutaneous pigmentation and suppression of melanosome transfer. British Journal of Dermatology, 147(1), 20–31. https://doi.org/10.1046/j.1365-2133.2002.04834.x
  • Tanno, O., Ota, Y., Kitamura, N., Katsube, T., & Inoue, S. (2000). Nicotinamide increases biosynthesis of ceramides as well as other stratum corneum lipids to improve the epidermal permeability barrier. British Journal of Dermatology, 143(3), 524–531. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/10971324/

Government and regulatory sources

• • U.S. Food and Drug Administration. 21 CFR 310.527 — Drug products offered over-the-counter for external use as hair growers or for hair loss prevention. https://www.law.cornell.edu/cfr/text/21/310.527
  • U.S. Food and Drug Administration. Is It a Cosmetic, a Drug, or Both? (Or Is It Soap?) https://www.fda.gov/cosmetics/cosmetics-laws-regulations/it-cosmetic-drug-or-both-or-it-soap